The Solo Scale:
Lake Taupō was created nearly two thousand years ago by a volcanic eruption so big it darkened the skies in Europe and China. When you’re there, you’ll find yourself questioning whether it really is a lake, given its vast size. It’s comparable to the Great Lakes, if you’re from North America. If you’re in Taupo and want an afternoon excursion, there’s none better than a cruise on the Ernest Kemp.
On the way out of the harbour area, you get amazing views of the homes of people living nearby. Plus, as you head out further onto the lake, you get a great view of Taupo itself. You’ll also get a great view of the “mountains” surrounding the lake. That’s a trick of the eye. This is actually level land, because the lake sits in a crater. The trip around to Mine Bay takes about thirty minutes with typically calm waters.
The main destination the cruise takes you to are the Maori Rock Carvings at Mine Bay. While you can choose the Ernest Kemp, you can also take a yacht and sail close to the carvings.
In the late 1970s master carver Matahi Whakataka-Brightwell had completed his 10-year training period with Māori elders. He came to his grandmother’s land at Lake Taupō to mark the occasion with a significant carving.
Mine Bay Māori Rock Carvings
Matahi decided to carve a likeness of Ngatoroirangi, a visionary Māori navigator who guided the Tūwharetoa and Te Arawa tribes to the Taupō area over a thousand years ago. In recognition of the cross-cultural nature of New Zealand, Matahi carved two smaller figures of Celtic design, which depict the south wind and Ngatoroirangi stopping the south wind from freezing him.
The main carving is over 10 metres high and took four summers to complete. The artwork is Matahi’s gift to Taupō. He and four assistants, Te Miringa Hohaia, Steve Myhre, Dave Hegglun and cousin Jono Randell, took no payment other than small change donations from local bar patrons to cover the cost of the scaffolding.
On the cruise on the Ernest Kemp, you’ll get approximately thirty minutes to swim (if you choose) or just enjoy some cookies, hot chocolate, and coffee. The weather on the lake can take a turn, but the choppy waves aren’t too bad. If you’re prone to motion sickness, err on the side of caution and pick up some motion sickness remedies that you find work for you. The cruise is an idyllic way to explore the Lake and see some of the more recent cultural contributions.
Ready to set sail? For details on departure times and ticket prices, check out the website here. There and back will take two hours (no time at all), but will leave you with a better understanding of how utterly vast the lake is, a unique view of the town, and a glance at a master carver’s work.
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