The Solo Scale:
If you’re going to San Francisco, one of the most famous tourist destinations is Alcatraz. The historic site has been a prison, a site of occupation, and a breeding ground for birds with good views of the Golden Gate Bridge and the city (when the weather permits).
The first time I was in San Francisco (a very long time ago and prior to CityCruises taking over), I walked down to the Pier and tried to get on a boat heading to Alcatraz. Unfortunately, I was denied, because I didn’t have a reservation. It was my last day on the trip and I wouldn’t have time to do that. It took 14 years, but I returned.
This time, I made sure that I purchased my boat voyage long ahead of time. The company happens to be the same one that operates the Niagara Falls boat (formerly Maid of the Mist, now Hornblower). If you are planning to go, getting an earlier departure is a good idea. The departures are time slots, which means that as the day goes on, you’ll start seeing more crowds from people who haven’t gone yet combining with those showing up for the first time.
Tip: Book that early morning departure, grab some coffee or tea and then take a streetcar (the F) or an Uber to Pier 33 — or if you’re staying by the Wharf, it’s a pleasant walk. Don’t forget a jacket. The wind can get brisk off the bay, especially when you’re out there on open water and if you are going in the morning, it can get chilly — even in the summer.
Once it’s your turn, you’ll board one of the boats that will take you on your journey to the island. Cross your fingers for a day with some visibility, because the view as you arrive is absolutely amazing. Even if you can’t see the island on approach, you’ll definitely smell it. Alcatraz might be known for its prison, but the birds have definitely marked it as their own.
As you disembark, several park rangers are waiting there for you. Take note of the instructions from the park rangers. They’ll point out many of the activities that are happening. The day I visited, they were having book signings at the gift shop from a former inmate. You can join a tour group for free led by the park rangers, which I highly recommend. They’ll take you on a slow walk up towards the cell blocks. In the process, you get a fantastic history of Alcatraz from its early days up to more recent history. As you walk, you can also observe the graffiti left from the 19-month Occupation of Alcatraz left by the activists.
When the park rangers finish the tour, you’ve arrived at the cell blocks. Here, your guide is an audio tour provided for free. It’s timed to the areas within the jail as you explore (and beyond). Inside, the history can be harrowing at times. That comes from a combination of the prisoners’ experience, but also seeing the conditions they lived in. On top of that, it’s occasionally hard to process the punishments that they endured. It’s not all bleak, though. There’s also tales of daring and escape. You might even recognize some of them, as they include stories about attempted escapes as well as tales from former criminals and guards.
On a beautifully clear day, you can see downtown and the Golden Gate Bridge. Given that it’s San Francisco, there are also days when the fog sets in. Those days, the best you can see will be the immediate five feet in front you. The weather isn’t done with the fog either. The wind can be wicked and sharply cold off the Bay when you hit a certain point of the island, so make sure to layer!
The departure point is at the same place as your arrival. The boats only dock in one place. However, a word of warning applies here. When you’re returning, you’ll be doing so with a crowd trying to do the same. Don’t leave your departure to the last minute, in case there are capacity issues on the returning boat. It’s another reason why you should try for an earlier departure to avoid a long line.
To book your excursion, research ticket prices, or learn more, check out the website here. Make no mistake that it will be incredibly popular and there will be a lot of people going through the same experience, but it’s absolutely worth it.
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